Biba de Sousa, an amazing esthetician who works with beautiful women like Emily Blunt and Alison Brie (just to name a few). She is an expert when it comes to solving skin issues. She specializes in acne, but she’s also a true wealth of knowledge when it comes to all things skin – which most of you know I love! Here’s what she had to tell us about the most common skincare issues and how to fix them…
The most common skincare issues that I see in my daily practice are acne, pigmentation, photo-aging and dehydration.
Pigmentation is very prominent in ethnic skin types; anyone who is categorized above Fitzpatrick III type and higher is more prone to hyper-pigmentation and choosing a treatment that’s right for each client is key for the skin’s safety.
Photo-aging is evident in people who enjoy an outdoor lifestyle (hikers, surfers, etc.). And it’s also common for people who are not taking sun precautions seriously and expose their skin to UV for prolonged periods of time. Men are more likely not to use sunscreen and, if they do, they forget to apply it on the neck and ears. Signs of photo-aging are noticeable as early as the mid 20s and the leathery, prematurely aged, pigmented skin is really seen in late 40s and 50s.
Dehydration is mostly seen in adults. If a teenager has dehydrated skin, it is most likely topically induced by a topical product that is too harsh on the skin. Dehydration usually occurs when the person doesn’t drink a sufficient amount of water, smokes cigarettes, eats a lot of sugar or doesn’t moisturize and protects their skin from the elements. Dehydration can be environmental (desert climate, long flights, etc.), too. Over-exfoliation of the skin will also cause stripping of the skin barrier, and thus dehydration sets in.
So how do you treat these issues?
Acne: I immediately highlight correlation between genetics, cosmetics, lifestyle choices, food and acne breakouts. I provide effective treatment options and I also offer a full line of products for eliminating flareups associated with triggers of the various type of acne. It is quite an intimate, intricate process but it works!
I actually specialize in treatment of acne. These days, because of the environmental pollution and fast life pace we all live, it is almost not a question if someone will get acne, but when it will happen. My acne product line has proven results and can treat even the toughest skin conditions effectively by means of many types of AHAs, exfoliants and other ingredients that have been tested in my treatment room for over a decade.
Pigmentation: This is the harder skin condition to treat, in my opinion. To my younger clients I try to convey the importance of preventing the occurrence of hyper-pigmentation. Once pigmentation has set in, it is very difficult to treat. Melasma is impossible to treat at this day and time, because it is of a hormonal origin, related to gut health, too (yeast) and it is very easily triggered (just one day spent in hot weather can reverse whole year of suppression effort). However, I’m able to greatly improve hyper-pigmentation in many clients and I maintain that it is worth trying!
Photo-aging: Treating photo-aging requires true team work: after an in-depth analysis we pinpoint the underlying causes and then make treatment plan. There’s a lot of improvement that can be made by simply using vitamins, peptides, AHAs, TCA (trichloroacetic acid in low doses), LED therapy, micro current and lymphatic drainage. Sadly, if the photo-aging is advanced and AGE (advanced glycation end) sets in, there is nothing that can help the skin to spring back to a healthy state.
Dehydration: Dehydration is fairly easy to treat, if the client is compliant. From nutritional advice to hydrating treatments, that affect actual skin tissues and fluids such as iDerm and Lymphatic Drainage, the skin gets restored and returns to that plump, smooth look. Healthy, hydrated skin should feel damp and slightly cold to touch. If the client’s skin temperature runs high, there is loss of water content (TEWL – trans-epidermal water loss), and that can be stopped by using an appropriate hydrator and moisturizer.